Act III: Conwy | rs-england2016

Conwy

Day 6

This morning we leave our comfortable surroundings at The Old Stocks Inn and begin our journey north to Wales. During breakfast, Robert and coach driver Louise listen to Shakespeare's request to accompany the tour for the remainder of the trip. Since his needs are minimal and he will remain in Wendy's coat pocket most of the time, his request is granted.

the plea......and the answer, yes!

It's a beautiful morning when we make the 70-mile drive to Stokesay Castle. The late 13th-century manor house, built by a leading wool merchant, is considered one of the best-preserved medieval fortified manor houses in England. Held in private hands with its buildings virtually untouched since its construction, it was bequeathed to the English Trust in 1992.

The 30 foot tall medieval walls surrounding Conwy are the most complete set in Britain. Robert offers to lead those so inclined (no pun intended) on a "wall walk" before our group dinner. Bill decides to recoup in the room while Wendy joins the group for a "WOW" moment. Not for the faint of heart, but for those not afraid of heights, unsurpassed views of the town and River Conwy await...

17th-century wood and plaster gatehouse

A view of the castle from St. John the Baptist churchyard.

Castle view from the gatehouse interior.

The Bard looking over gift shop quills.

A view of the castle from St. John the Baptist churchyard.

We were given a country to keep, a piece of land as proof that we insisted on living.

Etifeddiaeth by Gerald Lloyd Owen

Crossing the border into Wales, we continue our journey as we admire the lush countryside from the bus window.....a Constable painting? Since the 15th. century when the Welsh people began their struggle to become independent, they have treasured characteristics that showcase this independence. Perhaps the most noticeable is the preservation of the Welsh language which the English sought to suppress. Much of the signage is written in Welsh, but thankfully the English translation is nearby.

Following a brief lunch in Llangollen, we stop in the village of Trefriw for a tour of its well known Trefriw Woolen Mill in operation since 1829. At one time the wool industry was one of Wales' most important, but today very few are left. In an age where robotics play a major role in manufacturing, it's a pleasure to return to simpler times as we observe human beings at the controls...

Samples of various wools used in Trefriw products.

Processing the wool.

Finished and dyed yarn.

Samples of various wools used in Trefriw products.

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(click on image)

We arrive in the 13th-century market town of Conwy, Wales, where we will spend the next two nights. Conwy Castle and its walls dominate the landscape. The castle was built during the reign of Edward I as part of his conquest of Wales. Once the fortified castle was completed, incentives were given to settlers who would move there and the town became primarily English.

Conway Castle guarding the town

The Bard is all smiles when he sees that the hotel has named their Shakespeare's dining room after him.

Heated towel rods make great

clothelines

TRAVEL TIP

Located in the heart of Conway, a stone's throw from shops, pubs, and restaurants, the Castle Hotel was originally a 17th-century coaching inn. Historically rich, it was built on consecrated land formerly occupied by a 12th-century Cistercian Abbey.

We can only imagine that we may be sleeping where Charlotte Bronte slept when in 1854 she spent her honeymoon here. William Wordsworth also stayed at the Castle Hotel and his visit to Conwy inspired him to write the poem We Are Seven.

The 30-foot tall medieval walls surrounding Conwy are the most complete set in Britain. Robert offers to lead those so inclined (no pun intended) on a "wall walk" before our group dinner. Bill decides to recoup in the room while Wendy joins the group for a "WOW" moment. Not for the faint of heart, but for those not afraid of heights, unsurpassed views of the town and River Conwy await...

Ending the day with a delicious group dinner at Shakespeare's.........

Great sticky toffee pudding!

Good food...

Good conversation...

Day 7

Gareth and one of his loyal dogs

This morning the two "roomies" begin the day with an English breakfast of boiled eggs and soldiers. Not familiar

to those of us from the States, but quite good.

We drive south of Conwy to the Carneddau Mountains and the working farm of Gareth Wyn Jones and his family. A

charismatic, third generation farmer, he is known as The Hill Farmer. Gareth has made several appearances on

British TV and his recently published autobiography

details the events and decisions that went into making farming his life's work. Daily life on the farm can be quite difficult at times and Gareth illustrates that with stories of his family's struggles and joys.

One of the primary sources of income comes from the sheep they raise. Their well-trained and energetic border collies demonstrate their adeptness at herding sheep with very few commands from Gareth. Tour member Lisa is selected to show that even a novice can herd sheep with intelligent dogs like these.

Lisa the shepherdess

"Sir, I am a true laborer. I earn that I eat, get that I wear, owe

no man hate, envy no man's happiness, glad of other men's good, content with my harm,

and the greatest of my pride is to see my ewes graze and

my lambs suck."

As You Like It (III.ii.73-77)

Regrettably, we must leave this hospitable Welsh family and their farm. We are about to visit another of King Edward I's castles in the small town of Caernarfon. Caernarfon Castle, the most famous in Wales, is in somewhat better shape than Conwy Castle, but lacks some of its mystique. With Sue, our local guide, we tour what's left of the massive early 13th-century medieval structure and gain historical insight into its significance.

Caernarfon was English when the castle was built-Edward I destroyed existing Welsh town.

Magnificent structure.....note the Welsh flags above the towers.

Our local guide, Sue.

The castle's site wasn't chosen by accident. A Roman fort stood near here at one time.

Openings in the castle wall for crossbows.

King Edward's son, the first Prince of Wales, was born here in 1284.

Caernarfon Castle

Returning to Conwy, we spend our free afternoon exploring Conwy Castle and St. Mary's Parish Church which is built on the site previously occupied by the Cistercian abbey adjoining our hotel.

The castle itself is open to the public, but closes in the late afternoon on Sundays. Unfortunately for us, it's Sunday afternoon when we make our visit...

Taking the "wall route" to the castle, Bill is able to experience the breathtaking views of the town that Wendy saw the night before. It's an amazing experience to see this fairy tale structure up close.

Conwy Castle

UNESCO considers the castle to be one of the finest examples of late 13th-14th C. military architecture in Europe.

Conwy River view from wall turret window.

The Western Jackdaw lives on the town walls. Conwy residents born within the walls are called "jackdaws."

South side of church

Church entrance

Prior to the castle and town of Conwy, the only structure

on this site was the 1190 A.D. Cistercian Aberconwy Abbey. The abbey was moved elsewhere by Edward I when he built his fortress here, but he rebuilt the abbey church, the St. Mary's and All Saints Church, to become the parish church of his new settlement. Although parts of the church were rebuilt over the years, its size, location, and portions of its east and west walls are original.