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Stow

Day 4

With suitcases in hand, we board the coach for the half hour drive to the medieval village of Lacock. Dating back to the 13th. century, Lacock Abbey was the nucleus of this small hamlet.  The 16th-century Dissolution resulted in the abbey and surrounding village being sold to a private party.  It remained in private hands until it was given to The National Trust in 1944. Today it is a tour attraction as well as the

film and television set for two Harry Potter films and a Downton Abbey series to name a few.

A wonderful way to repurpose an old building

Back on the coach we're headed for Avebury.  If you thought Stonehenge was impressive, then you must see Avebury....the largest stone circle in Europe! Constructed during the Neolithic Age, this open-air museum, owned and managed by the National Trust, dates to 2800 B.C.  The original stone circle enclosed two smaller circles.  Over the years many of the stones have been removed by Christian leaders trying to destroy pagan sites, by local farmers who wanted to use the space for planting crops, or by those who broke the stones into pieces to be used for building material.

The hills in the area contain a large amount of chalk. As we get closer to Avebury, Louise stops the coach so that we can observe the 18th-century Cherhill White Horse. Carved into the chalk-filled hillside, it is maintained by local residents. The reason for its existence cannot be substantiated, although rumors

abound.  Several other chalk horses exist in England, some dating to the Bronze Age.  Quite a sight!

Cherhill White Horse

Wendy is a big fan of Diana Gabaldon's historic multi-genre book series Outlander. Claire, the heroine in the story, places her hands on similar Scottish monoliths and is taken back to

18th-century Scotland. Always curious, Wendy does the same, risking missing out on the rest of the tour (and more than likely no fee reimbursement). Bill, ever the good sport.....follows.

Hmmmm........not feelin' it.

Returning to the coach, we take a quick 45-minute drive to tour our last sight of the day, Blenheim Palace,  the birthplace of Winston Churchill.  This monumental 18th-century 7-acre country house was originally occupied by the 1st. Duke of Marlborough, John Churchill, and has stayed in the family ever since.  It is currently occupied by the 12th. Duke of Marlborough, Jamie Spencer-Churchill.  

Keeping a lavish estate like this up and running is not an easy task as the 9th. Duke of Marlborough encountered in 1892 when bankruptcy loomed.  Looking to the wealthy American Vanderbilt family as a source of much needed funds, he negotiated a forced, loveless marriage to the daughter of William Vanderbilt with her father paying $2,500,000 worth of capital stock for the privilege.  The current

occupant and estate trustees offset costs by opening the palace to tourists as well as renting the grounds to film companies and other ventures.

It's been a wonderful day, but we're looking forward to rest and relaxation at our next two day stop Stow-on-the-Wold........Stow, for short. 

Arriving at the 17th-century recently refurbished coaching inn, The Old Stocks Inn, we   encounter some confusion surrounding a double-booking of our room. Informing the staff that we have to be at our group dinner in a short amount of time, we are instructed to go to our designated room while they sort out the uncertainty.

Entering the room, we are overwhelmed by its luxuriousness. For a small market town, this is pretty "high class!"  Our room has a great view, soaking tub and stand-alone shower, and several other room amenities we haven't had so far.

However, closer inspection reveals what all the confusion is about............none other than William Shakespeare, the Bard himself, is here and appears to be in the midst of a   celebration.

Apparently, The Bard, lying in repose in Stratford-upon-Avon, was the subject of a "supernatural" event in which he was transported to the 21st. century, 400 years after his passing. "William" Shakespeare was given "William" Budge's room........and we acquire a "roommate".

The Avebury stones........!

"Why, sir, for my part I say the gentleman had drunk himself out of his five senses."

The Merry Wives of Windsor (I.i.81)

While we mull over our new situation, we join our tour mates in a group dinner at the inn.

Lisa

Louise, Our Coach Driver

Day 5

It's a very short drive to the small community of Stanway, home of the Stanway House, our first stop this morning. In the summer, the Earl of Wemyss opens his distinctive estate, which has been in his family for 500 years, twice a week to tourists. John, our charming docent, meets us in the courtyard. 

Jacobean Stanway House

Photographs of the manor house interior are not permitted.  Suffice it to say the home is refreshingly well-lived in and quite unlike the "polished" Blenheim Palace.  As we enter, the Great Hall looms on the right. A large Charles I oak shuffleboard, made for the home, dominates the room. John demonstrates how to use the 1780 Chippendale exercise chair and tells entertaining stories about frequent 1920's visitor J.M. Barrie, author of Peter Pan.

The Stanway Estate also has a recently restored working flour mill which produces stoneground flour from wheat grown on the property. It's a quick walk along a forest path to the watermill where we observe the mill in action.

Heading back to Stow-on-the-Wold for a free afternoon, we stop at the picturesque Cotswold village of Stanton.  Almost all of the buildings in this little hamlet are constructed entirely of Cotswold stone, a yellow limestone. One of the most distinctive of these buildings is the Church of St. Michael and All Angels. Sitting on what was at one time a pagan site, the church still has three 1200 A.D. Norman pillars, fragments of medieval glass, and remnants from several other renovations.

Back in Stow-on-the-Wold it's time for lunch!  After searching for just the right pub, we find

The Queen's Head.  Since it is a weekday, some of the town's residents are enjoying their lunch break, too.  Good food and a friendly dog make this a very pleasant experience.

The Queen's Head Inn

Eating with the locals 

We spend the remainder of the afternoon exploring this easily walkable village.  A variety of

boutiques, pubs, tea houses, and hotels line the streets.  It's quite relaxing to mingle with others and absorb the ambiance and architecture of the area.

(hover over image for description)

We return to our hotel room to prepare for our group dinner at a 17th-century country pub, The Bakers Arms, in nearby Broad Campden and discover Lil' Shakespeare in a state of shock as he beholds all the wonders of the 21st. century.  He's full of questions about all the events that have taken place since his passing and we are overwhelmed trying to answer them.  Seeing England first hand and the mark his literary works have left on it and the world, might be a solution to the problem. We'll make our trial run tonight...

"I have had a most rare

vision. I have had a dream, past the wit of man to say what

dream it was."

A Midsummer Night's Dream (IV.i.208-9)

The Bakers Arms

Dinner with tour mates,

      Viggo and Sylvia

What a memorable experience!  Not only was the pub food great (fillet of cod, meat pie, and sticky toffee pudding), but Bill and Lil' Shakespeare also found the local Stanway ale very good. We are entertained throughout the evening by a group of local musicians who perform traditional and modern folk music.  Shakespeare was especially honored to be the subject of musician Lol Moran's original song entitled "Bill the Quill".

With permission from Lol Moran, please enjoy the song he wrote, illustrated, and sang to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare's passing.

Lol Moran. "Bill the Quill." Online video clip.

YouTube. YouTube, 21 Jul 2016. web. 18 Jan 2017.

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