Days 11-12: Siena | rick-steves-italy-1

Concerto in C Major for Two Trumpets - Vivaldi

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This is the only solo piece Antonio Vivaldi wrote for the trumpet. As you listen you cannot help but feel the anticipation as the horses line up ready for the Palio de Siena, the 700 year old medieval horse race Siena is famous for.

DAY 11

PLEASE ACTIVATE AUDIO PLAYER

After arriving at centrally located Hotel Chiusarelli in the medievil hill town of SIENNA, we joined Mary in a brief walk to Il Campo, the main square, to meet our local guide, Annalisa. The shell-shaped square, surrounding buildings and City Hall with its 330-foot tower are all the color of the ground on which they stand...burnt sienna.

Originally an open market place formed at the sloping site of three ancient communities, Il Campo is now most known for its world-famous Palio di Siena horse races. City neighborhoods, contrada, compete with each other for the winning banner and the victorious contrada's colors are displayed throughout the city.

Annalisa showing layout of Palio races

Contrada's flags on city streets

Each of the seventeen contradas is a very tight knit group and its importance was made even more evident when we had the privledge to tour the Contrada della Selva museum, parish church and be the recipients of a group meal cooked by some of its members. The museum is attached to the church and houses Contrada Selva riding attire, saddlery and winning banners.

DAY 12

Our morning began with a visit to the studio of glass artist brothers Gianni and Massimo Bracciali. Their stained glass windows are awe-inspiring and their creative as well as restorative expertise is utilized world-wide. It was fascinating to learn the amount of skill and patience that goes into each piece and we all came away with a new appreciation of this ancient art.

"When in Siena, do as the..."

City Hall
The medieval city square, Il Campo.
City scene
Dinner at Contrada Della Selva.
The Palio di Siena
Selva's coat of arms.
Palio riding helmets at museum.
Ornate parade saddle
Museum display of Selva's Palio rider's clothing.
Interior of Selva's contrada church sanctuary.
Entering Bracciali brothers stained glass studio.
Explaining how stained glass pieces are created.
An example of their restorative work.
The brothers are involved in a variety of glass projects including items one can purchase.
The black and white marbled Duomo,
Marbled tower
Black and white marbled arches, the symbolic colors of Siena.
Dome interior with painted coffers.
"The She-Wolf of Siena" (1373) floor mosaic.
"The Slaughter of the Innocents" (1481). The floor mosaics are covered all but 6-10 weeks of the year...we were fortunate to be able to see them!
Pisano's Carrara marble pulpit (1268).
St. Paul by Michelangelo.
Brilliant frescoes decorate the ceiling of the Duomo's Piccolomini Library.
Siena's symbol is like Rome's. According to legend, Siena's symbol was stolen from Rome by Senius and Aschius, sons of Remus.

Where are we?

Following coffee and Siena's famous Ricciarelli cookies at Nannini's Bakery, we headed to the Siena Duomo where we met local guide, Alesia. Consecrated in 1215, the greenish-black and white marbled Cathedral was built in the shape of a Latin cross. The interior contains sculptures by Michelangelo and Bernini. Pisano contributed to the sculpting of the pulpit and the inlaid mosaic floor is one of the most ornate of its kind in Italy.